Restaurants

Hammer time in Bartonville

Quietly, Hammer’s Bar & Restaurant has become a local institution.

Hammer’s, named after the on-ice moniker of the original owner, a member of the Peoria Rivermen, recently changed hands. But the simple joint has been in operation for more than a decade and continues to crank out reliable eats at decent prices. No frills, no complaints.

The decor can be best described as postmodern sports bar: endless beer signs and posters filling whatever wall space isn’t dominated by multiple TV screens. The battered floor and stools give a lived-in accent to the long, trusty bar, which is often populated by talkative regulars.

On our visit, the drink service was brisk and attentive; you won’t die of thirst here. The appetizers didn’t come out until after a wait of about 30 minutes. Moments later, and despite a promise otherwise by the server, the rest of the fare arrived. Thus, we had to rush to munch through a table full of food before it all turned cool.

The wings (10 for $6.95, 20 for $11.95) come in six varieties. The hot version involves a tangy, Buffalo-style sauce, yet the spice doesn’t overwhelm. Still, they’re tasty enough to see how they won the People’s Choice award at the Prairie Air Show’s Wing-Off last spring.

The other appetizers include the usual deep-fried suspects. The mixed basket ($6.25) includes a generous mound of homemade onion rings that boast a puffy, peppery batter – delightful. The breaded mushrooms and mozzarella sticks were hot and lively, but the mini tacos were limp and lifeless.

Much of the rest of the menu touts an array of sandwiches, including what are supposed to be authentic Italian beef and Philly steak and cheese. The tenderloin ($6.25) is homemade, with a light, bread-crumb coating. It vastly overwhelms a hamburger bun. Still, the flavor seemed somewhat generic, as if it could’ve been a fish patty or whatnot. Moreover, though I’d told the server I wanted fries, the order came with chips.

A friend had raved about Hammer’s pizza, which comes in 12-inch and 9-inch sizes. The 9-inchers are huge and almost like a deep dish. The deluxe ($9.95) involves a flavorful mingling of sausage, pepperoni, onions, green peppers and mushrooms. However, be warned that this is the crumbly sausage, not the chunk kind.

Hammers also has a huge, popular breakfast menu. And for lunch, you can get gravy and mashed potato dishes. We’ll have to return for other mealtimes.

Phil Luciano can be reached at 686-3155 or moc.ratsjpnull@onaiculp.